The ABC’s of Basil Crop Production

The ABC’s of Basil Crop Production

Season

·         summer annual; loves heat

·         sensitive to cold weather; plant several weeks after last frost, when soils are warm – late spring

·         can stagger planting throughout summer

Planting

·         seed or direct transplant starting in early May through July

·         plant 6-12 inches within a row; 2-3 feet between rows

Germination Requirements

·         5-10 days to germinate

pH & Fertilization

·         pH – 6.4

·         fertilizer recommendation: 100# each N, P₂O₅, and K₂O per acre with a sidedress with 15-30# N after first or second cutting if not harvesting full plant

Cultural Requirements

·         full sun

·         warm soil

·         well-drained soil

Pinching Basil

·         basil will be just one long stem if you don’t pinch plant back

·         when there are approximately 6 nodes, pinch back to two nodes

·         repeat this process at least two more times, pinching off each stem

·         a hormonal reaction within the plant will cause it to send out two branches from the node below the pinchpoint

·         pinch off any flowers the plant produces; flowers à seed production à death of an annual plant

Mulching, Weeds, & Irrigation

·         mulch is recommended to suppress weeds, conserve soil moisture, and reduce soil splash

·         basil will not tolerant moisture stress

·         other weed management includes shallow cultivation & eventually the shade canopy

·         drip irrigation for precise watering at soil level

·         overhead irrigation should be done early in the morning so that the leaves can quickly dry – reduce susceptibility to disease

Insect Pest Management

·         insects pests predominantly caterpillars

·         controlled by reflective mulches, beneficial insects, and hand-picking

·         also OMRI-approved Javelin

      References:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-125.html
Johnny's Seeds 

What's Buggin My Basil?

Although basil is relatively pest-resistant, a number of bugs or insects may bother basil. such as Japanese beetles, aphids, spider mites and whitefly. Other garden pests, such as slugs, can cause similar damage along with leafhopper and nematodes. If you identify the pest that is damaging your basil, you can then apply the appropriate method to protect your basil.  Below are some symptoms and controls for a few of the annoying bugs that feast and infect our basil.   Let us know what's buggin yours!

Aphids: Common warm weather pest. Small, soft-bodied insects with long antennae that are generally wingless. Aphids primarily feed on tender new growth, causing the leaves to appear malformed or puckered. They are visible to the eye, and can be identified by the shiny, clear excretion called honeydew that they leave behind. Aphids can be controlled by a variety of botanical sprays, including insecticidal soap, pyrethrum, rotenone, and horticultural oil. Beneficial parasitic insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, and aphid parasites also are effective aphid controllers.

Japanese Beetles: A major problem for East Coast field growers. These 1/2”, metallic green beetles can cause major crop damage in little time. Generally found east of the Mississippi, beetles are quickly spreading westward. Japanese beetle damage is characterized by large uneven holes and chew marks on a plant’s foliage. Beetles spend 10 months of the year as grubs in the soil before emerging to breed in the summer. Traps are available to help control the population.  Beneficial nematodes, as well as Bt and Milky Spore disease are all controls for the grub stage of Japanese Beetles.

Leafhopper: A problem for the field and greenhouse grower. There are many species of

leafhopper. Generally, these insects are 1/8-1/4” long, wedge-shaped and light in color.

Leafhoppers can be detected by a distinct stippled or spotted appearance on the tops of affected foliage. Besides causing cosmetic damage to the plants, leafhoppers are also responsible for spreading viral diseases. Pyrethrum, rotenone, neem and horticultural oil sprays are effective against leafhoppers.

Root-Knot Nematode: Nematodes are microscopic roundworms that damage plant roots and interfere with the plant’s ability to uptake nutrients and water from the soil. Plant symptoms include wilting, low yield, discoloring and other symptoms related to nutrient deficiency. Adding organic matter to the soil and soil solarization are two possible controls for this pest.

Source:  Johnnyseeds.com

What's Botherin My Basil??

Below are a few of the diseases that you may come across when growing your basil. 

however, this information does not cover every problem that can occur with basil. If you notice a problem in your field or greenhouse, you can contact your local cooperative extension or agricultural agency and arrange to have the affected plants tested. Testing is the only sure way to diagnose the cause of a pest or disease problem. Very few chemical pesticides and fungicides are registered for use on basil, therefore, good cultural practices are important in preventing the onset of problems. For the best chance of having a successful basil crop, use the following guidelines:

• Use quality seed that has been tested for the presence of fusarium wilt fungus.
• Grow your crop in disease-tested soil or sanitized greenhouse conditions.
• Do not grow consecutive basil crops in the same soil.
• Inspect growing areas frequently, and remove any diseased plants immediately.
• Limit overhead irrigation, which can spread disease through the stand of plants.
• Create good air movement by increasing the spacing between plants or using fans.
•  Increase the organic matter in the soil, which favors pathogen reduction.

 Please share with others through our blog, any issues that you have experienced! 

 

Fusarium Wilt

Pathogen - Fusarium oxysporum, a soil-borne fungus that can last in the soil for 8-12 years.

Host - Only sweet basils; specialty basils seem resistant.

Environment – Soils with high moisture and poor drainage have higher rates of presence.

Signs & Symptoms - Typical plant growth until 6-12 inches, then stunted growth, followed by wilting, brown streaks on stem, discoloration of internal stem tissue, crooked stems, and sudden leaf drop.

Controls - Buy disease-tested seed or resistant varieties. If soil is contaminated, avoid planting any members of the mint family in that plot for 8-12 years - mints will not display symptoms of disease, but will carry over the inoculum. Also spread through contaminated plant material, so careful handling and destruction (by burning) of the plants is necessary.

Basil Downy Mildew

A relatively new disease affecting the leaves of basil, making it unmarketable.

Pathogen - Peronospora belbahrii, a fungal-like pathogen spread from infected seed or wind-dispersed spores with high travel capabilities.

Host – Basil and other Lamiaceae family plants, including crops and ornamentals

Environment – Carried in by wind.

Signs & Symptoms – Slight yellowing of leaves, similar to nutrient deficiency or water stress, dark-grey fuzziness on underside of leaves.

Controls – Use disease-free certified seed or disease-resistant varieties. Several OMRI certified fungicides exist, but are most beneficial when applied before the disease shows up and will need to be applied to the underside of leaves, which can be difficult. Affected plants should be removed from the area to reduce the chance of spreading. Till in diseased plants or lay out on a sunny day for the pathogen to be killed by UV radiation. 

Yellowing of the upper surface of affected basil leaves often occurs in sections of the leaf delineated by veins because the downy mildew pathogen cannot grow past major veins in leaves.

 

Bacterial Leaf Spot

Pathogen - Pseudomonas cichorii, a bacteria spread by water splash or handling or by contaminated seed.

Host – wide host range

Environment – Thrives in hot, wet/humid conditions.

Signs & Symptoms – Blackening of leaves.

Controls – Use certified disease-free seed. Plant crop at a wider spacing to increase air circulation. Avoid the use of overhead watering systems. Remove diseased leaves to reduce spread. 

Our Sources:

Cornell

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/NewsArticles/BasilDowny.html

Growing For Market

http://www.growingformarket.com/articles/20090929_7

Growing Small Farms

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/chatham/ag/SustAg/basildownymildew.html

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/chatham/ag/SustAg/basilproblem.html

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/chatham/ag/SustAg/fusariumbasil.html

University of Minnesota

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg1170.html

Johnnyseeds.com

Marketing Basil

 

Basil is the #1 fresh-market herb produced in large volumes. There are many small-scale fresh basil producers in North Carolina, however, unfortunately when most of them have product in mid-summer prices are low because it is in abundant supply. The trick is to have fresh basil when no one else does; in early spring, after frost, and during the winter.  Season extending methods, like covering plants with row-covers or trench culture, help stretch harvests into these low-product seasons.  Whatever the scale of operation, post-harvest handling is critical to the success of fresh-market herb production. The herb must be handled very gently to prevent bruising.  Leaves should be harvested and cooled quickly.  

If the herb needs to be washed, it also has to be dried. 

Herbs must also be packaged for long shelf-life and to prevent damage. Use of inferior packaging to save money will probably end up costing sales in the long run. Herbs should be treated like any other vegetable and packed in the proper boxes so they can be stacked and moved without damage to the product. 

Value added products can also be made and included in your market sales of which the most common is pesto.   It is a thick sauce made from fresh basil, olive oil, parmesan cheese, garlic, and pine nuts (yum yum!. Gourmet restaurants present it served over pasta. There is also a demand for pre-made pesto sold fresh or frozen.  Fresh herbs can also be used to make vinegars and jellies. Growers who produce basil in mid-winter rarely complain of an over-supply problem. 

As with any new crop, the first order of business is to establish markets. Then, determine what time of year the crop is needed and if it can be produced then. Will it fit into the production schedule of other crops and does the grower have the time, labor, space, and equipment to grow it? Is there a good location for direct marketing? Is there a specialty grocery store, gift shop, or health food store that will carry the products? What about a farmers' market or roadside stands? Businesses can be promoted and customers educated by holding workshops, cooking classes, garden tours, and festivals. All of these advertise, educate, and help promote new specialty items.

If a grower is serious about herbs, he or she should join state and national herb associations. They can provide a wealth of information, often based on growers' experience, that is unavailable through any other agency. They also provide marvelous opportunities for networking with other growers.

Herbs are beautiful plants to work with, fascinating in their variety, fragrance, and flavor. The public is also very interested in herbs. Of course, only the grower can make the final decision as to whether herbs fit into his or her business plan and production scheme. But if the decision is made to give them a try, remember to start small and develop a market early. 

Leaf yields range from 1 to 3 tons per acre dried or 6 to 10 tons per acre fresh.    A sickle bar type mower with adjustable cutting height is commonly used for harvesting large plantings for dried production. When harvesting for essential oil production, basil should be harvested during full bloom.

For fresh market sales, after harvest, wash and dry leaves and remove all weeds and flowers. Only the highest quality basil with the best color and aroma should be used. Wholesale packs may be prepared by filling perforated plastic bags with one pound of loose leaves. For retail sales, small, uniform bunches of leaves may be tied and packaged. Keep all basil refrigerated until sold. The optimum storage temperature is 40 to 45 F. Lower temperatures may cause discoloration. 

For a dried finished product, wash leaves, spread on screens, and sort out weeds and blossoms. To retain maximum color, circulate warm air (less than 130 F) around the leaves until dry. Sun-dried leaves tend to be brownish. Store in air-tight containers in the dark. For essential oil production, cut basil should be field dried for 1-3 days prior to collecting and distillling. 

References: 
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/fletcher/programs/herbs/crops/culinary/fresh_market_herbs.html
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-125.html

Harvesting Basil

One of the most important elements in growing a bounty of basil is the method in harvesting the basil plants. The bushiest plants are produced with the most amounts of leaves through proper pruning.  It is considered the secret to growing great basil, and while most people know they must harvest basil, they might be unsure of just how to do it.  

When the plants have 3-4 sets of leaves, you should gently cut the plant right above the second set of leaves.  Continually harvest the plants ever week or so to see a significant growth In commercial production, you can harvest every 3 weeks to produce longer stemmed bunches for market).   The growth hormone, auxin, controls where growth occurs and it is usually present at the highest concentrations at the growing tips of the branches. When you remove those "hot spots" then the next highest concentrated positions at leaf nodes further down the stems become the new "hot spots" and growth begins there. If you do this correctly every time then you should be able to produce 15 - 24 cups of basil per plant per season.  

Typically the best time to harvest the basil is in the morning. It should be right after the morning dew and before the heat of the afternoon. The essential oils are at their strongest, giving more of a robust flavor to the basil. The night before you harvest your basil, you should water down the plant thoroughly to ensure that all the dust and particles have been washed off. 

You will know when the end of the plant life is near when a stalk with buds shoots up from the middle of the plant.  You can keep harvesting by cutting off the buds before they bloom, but eventually the taste of the basil declines and hopefully your freezer has been filled with some frozen basil or pesto at this point! 

References: 
http://www.basilguide.com/harvesting-basil.cfm

http://www.richters.com/show.cgi?page=./QandA/Commercial/20060930-5.html&cart_id=9921569.10991